Saturday, July 17, 2010

Free Baptist Church in Kayaba Slum

Old blog post from June 2010

I had my first opportunity to worship with a Kenyan group of believers in June! I accompanied Debbie to Kayaba Slum, one of the largest slums in the world. Debbie is an inspiring lady who is actually one of my Doro team members, but currently stationed in Nairobi for health reasons. It was the most fascinating and pleasant day I spent in Nairobi during my time there in preparation for work in Sudan. I love to be with the people!
After the worship service (in which I had to speak three times--they believe in hearing from the guests) Debbie led a seminar on youth and children’s ministry. They then fed us chipati, ugali, beef and sukuma wiki. After the meal they turned to Debbie as an "elder" and asked many questions about leadership, conflict, sin and service in the church. It was absolutely amazing to be able to witness this part of the church leadership! It is very interesting the authority that they gave to Debbie as a missionary and a elder woman--she wasn't comfortable with the authority they gave her and referred them to the pastor at a few points. Wise lady.
Boy with umbilical hernia in Kayaba street
This is the view out one of the church doors--this young lady is talking on a mobile phone in the ditch
Children worship through dance at the beginning of the service.
What a cutie!
These girls loved seeing themselves on the camera
This is the water supply for residents of Kayaba
Alley near the church shelter
This was her face after she saw herself on my camera. Beautiful!

The effect of the lawa

I have found a way to bring a smile to the face of the Sudane woman or man—put on a lawa. I noticed these lovely drapes as soon as I arrived. 95% of the women in the city wear one daily over their top and skirt. I learned that they originated with the Shilluck tribe and are now popular with all tribes in the area.

My friend Mary took me to this shop to purchase one when I told her I wanted one. The shopkeeper insisted I wear it out of the shop. Initially I was thinking—it’s 95 humid degrees and I have a 20 minute walk home—I don’t want to wear another piece of clothing! However, as soon as I walked out of the shop the reaction from the local people was immeadiate and positive. That first day on the way home I was greeted by about 500% more of the people than on my way to the shop! A few ladies and girls even stopped me in the street to shake my hand. Talk about a morale booster! I no longer cared that sweat was running everywhere on me. I had pleased the people I want so much to know and understand. The men also are complimentary and not in a leering way but in an appreciative, you look like a lady way. So great! Yes, I’m a people pleaser….

They are so appreciative of the ways that we adapt to their culture, from attempting to speak the language, to eating their kissera, coldera and shorr’ba, and most recently-- every time I wear my lawa. : )  I don't think they are worn in Doro.  We'll see.

Monday, July 12, 2010

One month update

July 11, 2010
Salaam a le kum! Peace be upon all of you!

I am filled with joy to be able to greet you from Sudan. Arabic lessons commenced in the city of Malakal three weeks ago with my tutor, John (name changed), a missionary from the Nuer tribe who speaks five languages. We are concentrating on greetings, common vocabulary, marketplace phrases, faith related terms and medical terminology. We meet for one hour daily M-F. At the time of my departure for Doro in about a week, I hope to be more comfortable in the marketplace, be able to conduct simple conversations, and know enough medical terms to accurately assess/question patients and to teach them a bit about their heath. I will build on it in Doro.

My heart is drawn to the Sudane ladies, almost none of whom speak English. For the first few days they did not seem interested in interacting with me and this weighed heavily on my heart. Then, to my delight, I had the opportunity to begin assisting one of the missionaries with her beginner English classes for women. As the ladies began to know me they warmed up a great deal and we enjoy fellowship several times a week with my limited Arabic and their limited English. They are less inclined to approach us as they have more a language barrier with us than do most of the men. In general, men are more educated and have more opportunities to learn in school and after school.

I am very grateful for the opportunity to befriend two groups of unreached refugee ladies from Darfur. One of the other missionaries here has continued a friendship with them begun by a previous Malakal missionary. We visit them in their work places and homes. They are wonderfully receptive of our desire to know them and amaze me with their hospitality, generosity and easy laughter. My heart is full as I sit with them, try to communicate, build friendships and share laughs. These women don’t have Jesus but have a lightness of heart in their difficult daily work and sparse living conditions. They make me think of the hope and perseverance in this Zimbabwean Proverb. “If you can walk, you can dance. If you can talk, you can sing.” I can learn much about attitude from them. My desire is for lasting friendships and for them to learn about my Savior from me. As I do what God has put on my heart --my spirit soars!

My temporary Malakal home is a safari style tent under a bamboo structure that gives insulation from the sun. However, it is rainy season and I have seen far more cloudy days than sunny ones. The weather at present is “cool” in the 90s. I have learned that lizards are my ally in the battle against bugs in my tent. Lizards are everywhere and usually at least a couple are in evidence on the walls inside my tent every time I enter. We’ve surprised each other a few times—me by their proximity and them by my involuntary shrieks. We are coming to an understanding and mutual appreciation for each other. I attract the bugs and they eat them.

My first two weeks in Africa had me bustling about the much Westernized city of Nairobi, Kenya. There I learned the rhythm of the city, received orientation to the Sudan team, and purchased and shipped supplies to Doro. The most challenging task was selecting enough non-perishable food items for three months. If I didn’t get enough supplies I’ll have a limited, but culturally appropriate, diet of rice, lentils, bread, tea, peanuts and pumpkins (available at the market near Doro) for the remaining days or weeks of my first term. I will return to Nairobi for two weeks every three months for rest, continuing education and supplies.

I am currently recovering from possible cases of typhoid fever and malaria which knocked me down quite hard earlier last week. Our team physician diagnosed me via satellite phone and I began treatment with three medications, TLC, many naps and much prayer. We will probably never know for certain what I contracted, but I am responding to treatment –and to prayer, and well on the way to recovery.

Praises:
o Safe arrival
o An excellent Arabic tutor
o Good communication with family back home
o My mother’s forward progress in gaining strength since heart surgery
o Relative good health while adjusting to food and a host of new insects, bacteria, protozoa and viruses.

Prayer requests:
o For quick acquisition and retention of Arabic
o For God to send more workers to Doro this fall/winter
o For heart connections with the Maaban women
o For team building with entire SIM Sudan team (about 40 people in three locations)

I apologize for the poor quality images. We have limited Internet bandwidth and cannot upload larger, non-compressed photos. In late September I’ll have unlimited Internet for a couple of weeks in Nairobi—will upload lots of photos to Facebook and try to catch up better with you then.

We practice Arabic with Mary in her tea shop. When she allows us to pay, it costs less than the equivalent of $.40 for a cup of tea or coffee. Yes, we are standing in the tea shop—put the coffee shop image far from your mind…

Some of the ladies we visit once or twice weekly. The lemon held by Hawa on the far right was just for laughs. These ladies are a remarkable testimony to the resilience of the human spirit. We laugh more when at their compound than we do on most other days.

My home with the lizards. We enjoy electricity from 5p to 5a so I get to sleep with a fan. : ) It reduces the sweating and drowns out some of the city sounds—donkeys hee-hawing, greetings between the many people walking at any time of day or night, rickshaws bouncing through the ruts, goats baaing, tea shops opening at 5:30, etc.

Angelina (one of the English students), Gail, me and Heather in our lawas while visiting Mary’s home (tea shop friend). A lawa is a Shilluk tribal draped cloth that most women wear when outside their homes, especially when visiting others homes.

Thank you for your prayers, financial support and encouragement, without which I would not have the privilege of being here. Please keep in touch with me via email. I love hearing from you and want to know how I may pray for you.

In His Grip,
Sheila

Daily life and images--Malakal Sudan

Here is my typical day in Malakal, Sudan
7:00 Climb from under my mosquito net and prepare for the day

7:20 Water the garden

7:30 Meet with team for devotions

8:15 Cook semolina (I call it Malt-O-Meal) and eat breakfast

8:45 Quiet time

9:15 Ask the other missionaries questions

9:30 Go to the market for supplies for meals OR study Arabic. The marketplace is a great place to practice my Arabic.

11:45 Eat a snack and make juice drink for language tutor
12:00—1:00 Arabic tutoring session
1:15 Eat lunch
1:45--4:00 It depends on the day: do meal prep in solar cooker and/or go visit the Darfur ladies, wash clothing, make Arabic flashcards, download photos or read about communicable diseases
4:00--5:30 Assist with teaching ESL to group of 14 ladies
5:30-7:00 Cook dinner for the group (every other night)
7:00 Eat dinner and assist with clean-up
8:00-10:00 Go online via satellite and check email, blog updates, and do ministry “paper work”
10:00 Cold shower outside (usually I’m hot enough that I’m grateful it’s cold)
10:20 Climb back under the bed net and read more about communicable diseases until I get sleepy

It is going really well. I'm enjoying language study more than I expected. God is answering prayers! Language study along with helping with cooking and cleaning are really my only responsibilities for the four weeks I am in this city, but I'm filling my days with assisting with teaching English as a Second Language classes with other missionaries. I have also been visiting with some ladies from Darfur with another missionary. I’m intrigued by these new friendships. They are some of the most hospitable and outgoing people I have encountered here.

I'm so excited to be learning so much. I practice my Arabic in the market. We go almost daily because there is no regular refrigeration here. We "have all things in common" and purchase groceries and household items with money we all pitch in, and share most meals together. I’m amazed at how much of my day revolves around food preparation. In the US food preparation/eating was a very small portion of my day. Now with market walks, solar cooking, the knowledge that since it is for the group I need to put effort into it, limited supplies, new cookbooks, etc., meal preparation takes forever! I’m enjoying learning to cook different things than I’ve ever done and am much more resourceful now.

There is no hot water. All water for cooking/drinking goes through filters. Dish water is cold (and slightly brown—it is water from the Nile). After dishes we recycle it by watering the plants and fruit trees.


The city is noisy--but not in the way you'd expect. It is not so much cars and sirens-- it is the hee-haw of donkeys, the rattling of their carts, and the shouted greetings of the many pedestrians about 10 feet on the other side of my tent. My tent is on the street side of the SIM property so I catch the city sounds as it wakes up early each day. The streets are dirt, with the exception of two asphalt ones I've seen so far.


When it rains, the dirt becomes a slick sticky goo and travel by anything except Wellingtons becomes virtually impossible unless you want to have mud up to your knees. Some vehicle owners still travel and frequently become entrenched in the mud and require assistance to get moving again. The soil is some kind of clay that has no rocks in it. Within 30 minutes of a rain the soil gets this swishy, bottomless quality and shoes/boots become heavyladen with the mud. It is an intereresting mess.


The rains always bring a cooler day and night or two. The consistent rains, necessary for the local crops, have not yet arrived. My language tutor told me that the crops have already failed and will have to be replanted when the consistent rains come. I know that is a great financial burden for individuals and the community as a whole. Please pray that the people do not have additional drains on their economy.  There are so many challenges for the the south Sudan people already.
Here are some of the sights of the city for you.

Some of the Shilluck tribe ladies in the beginner ESL class
Mary, in front, second from L, runs a teashop nearby and has been incredibly helpful allowing me to practice my Arabic with her.
Blessed rain coming. Mary says, "The rain, it wants to come." when the sky looks like this.
 The wildlife aren't much to worry about here in the city.
Hedgehog found in one of the empty tents.


I frequently run into this litle girl on the way to/from the market.  She is full of smiles and always says a few greetings in Engligh. Oh, yes, that is one of the main streets of the city.
Random pic after church.
Every Sunday everyone lines up and goes the length of the line and
shakes hands with EVERYONE before leaving. Love this custom! 
Sudan Interior Church School morning assembly. This elementary school
for 400 students is just across the fence from us.
There is a hammock for chilling. : )
Mary in her teashop with another missionary, Heather
Amanda and Heather walking to Hi Jalaba to visit Darfur friends
Well, the two on the left are actually relieving themselves.
Yes, right in the ditch between their tukul and the street.
Cute little one we visit along with a whole group of ladies living in community together as refugees
Gale (missionary) and me visiting with Mary's family in her home
Angelina (one of the ladies in the ESL class) with Gale, me, Heather in our lawas
The view from the hammock of the shelter over my tent
Beautiful!
My transport into Sudan. Since there is little in way of commercial flights in South Sudan, we are dependent on a number of connecting flights with organizations such as World Food Program
and Mission Aviation Fellowship

Bun for five. The ladies serve us this sweet, spicy coffee in tiny cups with many refills.
Some of our friends
Me with some of the ladies ESL class. I'm going to miss them!